

Here are the rip off pictures of us with the baby falcons. I hope you enjoy them because they work out to roughly $3 a piece.
Motorbikes and these semi-creepy posters of President Zine El Abidine Ben Ali who is up for "reelection" in 2009.
After a lazy morning and late breakfast, we went to visit the Zaytouna Mosque at the center of the medina. Non-muslims are allowed into the courtyard only at the beginning of the day. It was a really calm beautiful space in the middle of all the hustle and bustle of the medina.
We walked around a little bit more - the highlight of which was a little boy who walked up to us and exclaimed, "Bonjour! Un dinar?" Which is basically like saying, "Hello! Dollar?"
We went back and checked out of our hotel and headed to the airport. We decided to get there plenty early, since efficiency is not this country's strong suit. It took about an hour to get our boarding passes and get through customs and security.
There was a pretty interesting social experiment once we got to the gate called "How will Sarah deal with the crazy lax parenting of other cultures?" First, this fat dirty little boy sat behind me and proceeded to knock his chair into mine. When I pushed it away, he turned around and hit me exclaiming "NO POUSSEZ!" I literally didn't even know where his parents were to give them an are-you-kidding me expression.
However, that was nothing compared to another woman who proceeded to change her preschooler's very dirty diaper on a nearby table and then leave the wipes laying there!!! I was beyond horrified and had to warn another woman (who happened to be American) who sat down beside it to eat her lunch not realizing what they were.
Once we got on the flight there were no other run-ins thank goodness and we made it to London and then JFK without incident. More importantly, our bag made it too! For those with good memories, that means Tunisair couldn't deliver our bag with an almost 9 hour layover in London but Virgin Atlantic managed to do it with only an hour and a half. God save the Queen!
We stayed the night with Dan and Laura and were up late telling tales of cultural mishaps and looking at pictures.
We're going to meet my friend Dave for breakfast tomorrow morning then we take the Bolt Bus home. We will hopefully be on our own couch with our sweet dog by 4.
Today was our last full dau in Tunisia and it was great.
We hired a driver to take us to the city of El Jem to see the ancient Roman colosseum. It is a bit smaller but much better preserved than the one in Rome - as in we could walk in the corridors on the top level preserved.
If we thought the sarcophagi were difficult to take in, this was mind-blowing. It was so beautiful but also overwhelming to think of how many people flowed through the corridors or for that matter how many came in to the arena and never left.
We wondered around the colosseum for a while then walked over to the archeological museum, which had amazing mosiacs and a restored roman villa with the original mosiac floors. It was all completely amazing and a great end to what I'm deeming the ancient portion of our trip.
We had a quick lunch in El Jem where I had my last brick l'ouef and then we headed home.
Once back at our hotel, we checked out the computer and TV, which we had just discovered before we left. I was probably more excited than reasonable about email access, although my excitement was dampered a bit by the arabic keyboard.
We went out on the town for our last dinner in Tunis and had chicken couscous (of course!). We had coffee and desert on the hotel rooftop deck overlooking the city as we listened to the final call to prayer of the evening.
All in all the perfect last day.
We took it easy this morning and didn't leave for Carthage until almost 11. We took the suburban train line out there, which was a pretty quick trip.
We hiked up Bysra hill once we got there and took in the amazing view and the musuem. Nicholas said it and I completely agree that it is really difficult to comprehend how old everything is. We were looking at these two stone syrcophagi from the 4th century BC and neither of us could wrap our brains around the objects in front of us being 2400 years old, partcularly since we've only been alive 1/100th of that time.
After leaving the museum we walked down to the Antonine Baths, which were the remains of a huge Roman bath complex. It was gorgeous set against the deep azure blue of the water.
Next, we took the train a few stops up to Sidi Bou Said, a very chic beach community. We hiked all the way to the top before realizing the only ATMs were at the bottom of the hill. We had a very frustrating 30 minutes searching out cash but Amen Bank came to our rescue - and the choir said amen!
After taking a taxi back to the top, we enjoyed some very tasty local donuts and a relaxing rest at the cafe. We attempted to eat at one of the local restaurants we'd heard a lot about but they weren't going to serve us for several hours.
So we took a VERY hot train ride back to Tunis and stopped at the local Monoprix for dinner provisions. After much needed showers, we had dinner in our room and went to bed early.
Tomorrow is our last full day here and we've hired a driver to take us to El Jem to see the Roman amphitheater.
Whoops. Pressed send instead of save.
Anyway, we arrived in Tunis around 11 and were beyond surprised when our bag showed up too!
We took a cab to the medina and checked into our hotek, the Dar El Medina. It is a converted 19th century mansion run by the family who has lived here for generations. Our room is completely lovely and we have the neighboring courtyard all to ourselves.
We set out for the mosque and surrounding markets after we had settled in to the hotel. It was like something out of a movie. We walked around and tried to take it all in - the objects, people, sights, smells. We bought some souvenirs and I think we only got ripped off once. We had the hang of bargaining. It goes something like this.
Seller: 50 dinar
Me: How bout 10 dinar?
Seller: IMPOSSIBLE! 40 dinar only. Best price all medina.
Me: 10 dinar
Seller: no no no
Me: Ok thanks!
(Walk away, get about 6 feet)
Seller: Ok! 10 dinar!
That's pretty much how's been everytime. The inefficiency of it kind of wears me out. Just tell me up front how much and save everyone the time, but I guess it's all about the experience.
We stopped for a long lunch at Dar Bel Hadj, which was wonderful. The best part was we met our first American! We overheard her speaking english and introduced ourselves. She was a Texan visiting her Tunisian boyfriend and his family and just like Americans at home she asked us how we ended up in Tunisia.
We went back to the hotel for a while then walked around the medina and ville nouveau a bit. We went to the top of a nearby hotel and took in a panoramic view of the city which was amazing.
We had dinner that night at a beautiful restaurant Essaraya, where the atmosphere was more amazing than the food. I had the kackabou, which was fish with tomatoes, capers, and olives and it was delicious. Nicholas had the Rough Guide recommended mloukhia, and - how do I say this politely? - it tasted better than it looked. It was so ridiculous we both had to fight back giggles.
We headed back to the hotel and after an exhausting day went to bed early.
Tomorrow we head out to the suburbs of Carthage and Sidi Bou Said.
Today we left Jerba in the morning and took a flight back to Tunis. On our way to the airport, the blues of the sky and the sea were exactly the same and you couln't tell where one ended and the other began. It was magnificent.
Today was amazing.
I woke up and had a lovely breakfast by the pool. Then I went to the hotel spa and had a massage. It was wonderfully relaxing, although for any of you who have only had massage in the U.S. let me warn you there are differing levels of modesty. The masseuse stayed in the room while I got undressed and had me lay on my back without the sheet for much of the massage. It was very different, but I never felt uncomfortable.
After the massage, I had a thallasotherapy, which is basically sea water hydrotherapy. I got in a big tub of sea water and the attendant sprayed me down under the water with high power saltwater jets. It felt great and my skin felt fabulous afterwards.
Once I was finished, I joined Nicholas by the pool where we swam and hung out for most of the morning.
Then we had lunch...on the beach.
I took a nap...on the beach.
We read for hours...on the beach.
Noticing a patten? :)
We swam in the ocean for a while then decided to turn in because Nicholas was getting a little pink.
The day just kept getting better because we called that afternoon and our bag had arrived! Miracle of miracles! Nicholas had decided it was lost forever so we were pretty excited. It had like three rush tags on it which clearly meant nothing but oh well. The customs officer who checked us out was very excited that we were American and at one point asked for my passport so he could just check flip though and admire it.
We came back to the hotel and got ready for dinner. We went out to the main town on the island (Houmt Souk) for dinner, this time armed with reservations for Restaurant Haroun. It was one of the nicest restaurants we've eaten at since being here. Clearly aimed at tourists, it had performers throughout the night. The food was really good and atmosphere fun so it was great end to a great day.
Tomorrow morning we head back to Tunis.
We woke up this morning and set out for Matmata. The trip took a little over an hour and we stopped at a berber village along the way where I encountered my first baby camel. I wonder if Maggie would get along well with a baby camel because dang that thing was cute.
We made it to Matmata around 11:30 and were welcomed into a troglodyte home. They're homes basically bulit into the walls of a pit they dig directly into the ground. It was pretty unbelievable, especially the temperatures of the room which stays in the 60's despite the heat. When we arrived the woman who lived there was preparing bread, which she cooked by pressing the mounds of the dough on to the walls of a small fire pit. Our guide had us sit in one of the rooms and she brought in the bread with honey and oil along with mint tea. It was really wonderful and reminded me of a heartier version of naan.
We left there and set out for Gabes, where we would catch a ride to Jerba. We made a quick stop along the way there where we were promptly ripped off by a local boy who shoved a baby falcon in our arms and then charged us 10 dinar A PIECE for the service. Nicholas didn't want to fight him and we decided to take a c'est la vie attitude about the whole thing.
We arrived in Gabes and were dropped by our guide at the louage station. Louages are basically shared minivans and are a pretty common form of transportation in Tunisia. We found a louage going to Jerba without incident and I read most of the way there to distract from the incredible liberties the driver was taking with our safety, especially since there were no seat belts. Needless to say, nicholas has nixed the idea of renting a car and driving ourselves after the experience.
After crossing to the island on a ferry, we headed straight for the airport where our bag was supposed to be delivered the day before. Surprise surprise - it had not arrived but the man assured me it would arrive at either 8 or 10 that night. I guess the either/or arrival time should have tipped me off.
We checked into our very plush resort hotel next. The luxury could not come soon enough after our last couple of hotels - let me tell you. I went for a dip in the pool and we went and checked out the beach. We got ready and attempted to eat out on the town but the recommended restaurant was closed and nothing else looked appealing. So we headed back to our hotel for dinner. It was actually a great meal. We theorized since primarily French stay there they couldn't get away with subpar cuisine.
After dinner, we called the airport to see if our luggage had arrived ... Yeah, that's a big no but "no worry madame. It will arrive tomorrow by 9:30 in the morning."
Yeah, I'll believe that when I see it.
Good news - Nicholas and Tunisia are now BFF!
That's the best thing about vacation I suppose, you never know when things will shift and everything will start going your way. It's just like in life only more intense.
We woke up today and set out early to check with excursion companies and see if our "friend" at the hotel was right and there were no trips to Ksar Ghilane. The first place we found said they could take us but it would be 500 dinar and wouldn't include camp or food. Despite Nicholas's extreme protest that we should take what we can get I insisted we try a few more companies. Right before I promised we'd turn around, we found Heart of the Desert excursions, who had come highly recommended. The owner spoke english and offered us 380 to get us to Gabes and then on a bus to Jerba - oh and that included food and camp. God, I love being right.
He told us to come back in a couple of hours so we went and took a tour of the palmerie in Tozeur and the medina, which was lovely. When we returned, he'd found us a guide that spoke some english, which was just icing on the cake.
We set out for Douz, considered the gateway to the sahara, and arrived around lunch. We had lunch and drove out into the desert to Ksar Ghilane where we would be staying the night. The drive itself was amazing (although I might have napped for a little bit). The landscape was beautiful and immense and we stopped several times to take pictures of rock formations, the big salt lake, and I kid you not - a camel crossing!
Once we arrived at the camp, we settled into our tent and then had drinks by the spring. At around 6:30, we set out on our sunset camel tour over the desert. The second we walked out behind the cafe the dunes took my breath away. They were different from the ones on the drive - vivid orange like something out of Lawrence of Arabia. We rode along with a very nice Italian couple and their son for about an hour and a half to the Roman ruins of Limes. We watched the sunset from there which was phenomenal. Watching the sun set over a sea of sand is truly something I will never forget.
Of course, I look over at Nicholas who is CHECKING HIS BLACKBERRY! He seemed to be more amazed by the fact that he had service then by his surroundings. :)
We rode back which was a little intense because of the increased wind and sand. Our bums were getting pretty sore by this point but even so it has to be one of the coolest things I have ever done.
We came back and had dinner at our camp and a well-deserved rest.
Tomorrow we set off back across the desert to Matmata - start humming the Imperial March now because this is where Uncle Owen's house in Star Wars was filmed. To say Nicholas is excited would be an understatement.
The day started out well. We had a nice breakfast on the balcony of the hotel. We took the metro out to the Bardo Museum, which was amazing. They had everything from prehistoric tools to greek bronzes recovered from a shipwreck. The museum is known for its roman mosiac collection and I can see why. Mosiacs two stories high with scenes across land and water - pretty impressive I have to say.
Afterwards, we came back to the hotel and checked out then had a nice lunch at a seafood restaurant named Chez Slah.
We decided to go to the airport early to sort out our luggage situation. There seemed to be no problem sending it on to Jerba where we will be for two nights, two nights from now.
So we were on to check in for our 3:30 flight to Tozeur, when they informed us it was cancelled and we'd have to wait until 7:45. We had planned to get to Tozeur early to sort out our desert excursion the next day so we tried to do some arranging through the tourist agency without much success.
We decided to just hang out at the airport for the next couple of hours which is when Nicholas and Tunisia's relationship started to go sour.
We finally got to Tozeur that night and found our hotel- which is supposed to be helpful with excursions- not helpful at all. In fact, he told us repeatedly there were no excursions. Depressed, we went to dinner at a really nice restaurant and ate our first couscous and a regional specialty called brick l'oeuf.
They were both delicious but we were pretty dispirited and went to bed hoping our luck would be better tomorrow.
Stay tuned to see if nicholas and tunisia work things out!
SPOILER ALERT - we are headed out on our desert excursion later today. Probably will not have wireless access from this afternoon through tomorrow.
I'm counting our first two days of travel as one big day since that's sort of how it felt.
We left friday morning on a bus to new york. We got there plenty early so we had lunch with our dear friends Laura and Dan at this adorable pizza place outside.
Our flight to london was pretty uneventful once we got off the ground. Unfortunately, that took over 2 hours because of a rain delay. We were afraid we would miss the opportunity to go into London but it worked out fine. We spent the morning on a double decker bus tour and got off at big ben to have lunch with my college friend Jane Conner, who lives in London.
The craziest part was as we were walking back from lunch to finish our tour I ran into a friend from law school ON THE STREETS OF LONDON!!! Saying it's a small world seems cliche but dang it's a small world.
Our flight to Tunis was a little late taking off. We sat down next to lovely woman returning to visit her parents and not soon after take off one of the male flight attendants brought us all some candy. No one else seemed to get any so I was confused. Nicholas thought he was trying to flirt with the woman sitting next to us. Turns out he was definitely right because over the course of the flight he brought her extra desserts from first class (which she shared), champagne for all of us, a bag full of the tiny liquor bottles! When we thought he was tapped out, he moved ALL of us to first class, gave her more liquor, toilettes, and a desert rose broach!
It was totally hilarious and she took it all in stride. When I took a picture of the liqour, she said I should put her clevage in the shot since that was what got us all the stuff!
We thought we were on a roll with our free upgrade but our bag never made it (despite the 8 hour layover!) and we're going to have to figure out how to get it since we leave tomorrow before it shows up.
We'll keep you updated.
Top 10 Albums to Take With You to a Desert Island
This was more difficult then I expected. Do you pick classics you know you won't get tired of? Or do you go with albums that have been instrumental in your own life? Do you pick a varied selection so you have something for every move? I basically went with all three strategies because I couldn't decide.
1. Joni Mitchell - BlueThis picture was taken my sophomore year. The people range from freshman to seniors.
Every couple is now married.
Discuss among yourselves.
I'm scanning all my photos from college and this picture represents my first semester in a nutshell - staying up late with all my new hallmates laughing our butts.
This was really fun. I recommend it to anyone with a flickr account.
Five years ago today, Nicholas and I were married. Jealous?
Last Saturday, my great-aunt Carolyn passed away. She was 73, and her loss was and still is profoundly felt.
I flew to Kentucky the next day to be with my family as we all celebrated her life and mourned her passing. We told stories and distracted ourselves when the stories were too much. I learned things about her that I had never known, but mainly had my notions of her strength and compassion confirmed.
She was a lot of things to a lot of people but here is what she was to me.
Growing up, so the story has been told to me a hundred plus times, my Uncle Joe (as in "Uncle-Joe-and-Aunt-Carolyn," one word) would call up my mother and matter-of-factly inform her that she needed to drop me off at their house. They had not seen me in a couple of days and she could go off and do any old thing she wanted, as long as it involved dropping me off first.
I would spend hours to days being doted on and fed. Aunt Carolyn doing the former and Uncle Joe the later if memory serves. She would buy me Barbies, Barbie Vans, Barbie Salons, Barbie Pools. She would read me stories or play the piano while I sang along. I was taken along on anything from basic errands to church revivals. When they moved to Florida, going to see them became a trip in itself.
It would be almost 10 years before they had grandchildren of their own , and I gratefully filled in as a surrogate until Courtney and Zach showed up. Aunt Carolyn loved me unconditionally and I felt that love no matter how far away she was or how long it had been since we'd seen each other. Whenever I thought of all the people praying for me - praying me safe, praying me successful, praying me happy - Aunt Carolyn was the first person I always thought of.
She valued family above all else and undertook to preserve and protect it in her own way. To say she liked to take pictures is to say Shakespeare liked to write. She preserved the present with a dedication unmatched in our family - a sisyphean task in a group where the commandment to "Look this way and smile!" elicits only groans and complaints, if not full out sprints and dodges.
She also protected the past. She knew the story of every great-great grandparent, aunt, and even cousin. If that weren't enough, she could point them out in the antique photos she carefully kept and cataloged. When others in her generations couldn't tell a CPU from a JPEG, Aunt Carolyn scanned and labeled hundreds of family photos - understanding the power of new technology to safeguard these images.
I inherited my love of ancestry from her and I am so grateful that I spent several hours with her last summer learning the connections and stories that otherwise would have been lost. Of course, I know her knowledge went beyond those few hours but all I can do now is piece it together from notes on the back of pictures and more traditional sources, instead of hearing it from her.
Her love of family was not limited to her own blood and I learned at her funeral how many other lives she touched. She was always anxious to find a connection with everyone she met and if it wasn't there, she forged it herself.
I still giggle at the memory of her first interaction with Nicholas. She sat down beside him at a family gathering and asked him, "Now, Nicholas, where are your people from?" To say he was confused would be a vast understatement. He offered that his mother and father lived in Atlanta. She persisted, "Now, I know some Hollands over in Caldwell County. Are you kinned to them?" More befuddlement from Nicholas.
No matter. If his family weren't from her neck of the woods, she wanted to know where they were from. She continued to question him about his family and his life as if knowing Nicholas better was all that mattered. In that moment, I suppose it did.
I hope I inherited far more from this woman than a love of family history and the lyrics to "I Shall Not Be Moved" and "I'll Fly Away." I hope I can be as faithful as she was to the values of God, family, and compassion. I hope I can give passionately to my marriage and my career - racking up decade after decade to their service. Above all else, I hope I can become worthy of my Aunt Carolyn and all those prayers she sent my way over the years.
So, today we picked up our first harvest share from Bull Run Farm! It was so exciting to wait in line and pick out all our veggies.
I was a little worried at first because one of my coworkers told me she had picked up veggies from the same farm and that they had been "really dirty." Luckily, I quickly remembered that vegetables grow in the ground, not in the produce aisle. ;)
We got scallions, pac choi, greens, tat soi, basil, oregano, garlic skape, sorrel, chives, and our egg share. Nicholas made a delicious stir fry of the pac choi and garlic skape for dinner.
I'm glad the veggies have arrived but I'm not sure how much easier they are going to make the 21-day cleanse. The second day was no easier. I'm still hungry. I still have a headache.
And I really, really want a cookie.
I don't know why this is so much cooler than CNN or Fox News, but it totally is!
Peruse the cover to your left. It promises to give you the juicy details about the birth of Angie and Brad's new twins. Only one problem – they haven’t been born yet!!! This can only mean that the article is a complete and total work of fiction.
I’ve always stuck up for celebrities when they complain about the gossip machine and I don’t read these magazines or perezhilton.com or whatever. But when a celebrity said, “They make things up. There is not an ounce of truth to these stories.” I always thought, “Oh come on, there’s got be something there or elsewhere would it come from.”
But obviously I was wrong and the stories are coming from out the editor’s asses. I mean there was NO delivery. Angelina is still walking around pregnant as the day as long.
Something tells me this isn’t quite what the Supreme Court had in mind with the public figures exception.
Nicholas and I have had a really wonderful weekend.
Mine started off with a bang. My friend Molly and I went to see Sex and the City: The Movie and it was AWESOME! My biggest complaint is I wanted more. I could have sat through 8 hours with a movie about each character.
On Saturday, we had lazy day. I slept in and we went out for a nice brunch at Open City. Then, we went to see the new Indiana Jones movie, which was fun. Not groundbreaking or earth-shattering, but fun.
Today, we woke up and went out to Shenandoah National Park. We brought Maggie and she did great on the almost 6 mile hike - although she is zonked out on the floor at the moment. We hiked to a big waterfall and ate a picnic lunch. It was a bit of a haul towards the end but we made it!
As many of you may have noticed, I am scanning all of my old photos and putting them on flickr. I thought I would share this photo with all of you because I think it is the best picture taken of me EVER.
Given I was only 16 and cellulite free, not to mention with my high school boyfriend who was not my decision making at its best, but dang I look good! Also I think I deserve some serious credit, because that was 1998 and I would wear that dress tomorrow. The same cannot be said for some of my friends I'm afraid.
Nicholas and I spent a lovely Saturday at Mount Vernon. We took a cruise up the Potomac early in the morning and arrived at George Washington's home around 10. We saw the grounds and the new welcome center and museum. We had a nice little lunch and did the tour of the mansion right before we caught our boat back to DC.
The weather was perfect and we had really wonderful time.
I met Barbara Walters today...JEALOUS!?!? She was signing copies of her new books on the Hill today. I told her I was honored to meet her and a big fan of The View. She was quieter then I thought she would be but very pleasant.